to give you a gest of what we enjoyed - sea of cortez` 08, sharing some of the flavor via sailing:.
an ecological transformation of life happens very rapid as debree is washed down from hills into sea supporting new life after chubasco in sea.. i had fun reading history..
weather patterns of importence should be studied, sharp steep seas + strong winds as you turn into the sea from cabo + very strong currents between Midriff islands, Lapaz anchorage drags anchor if by marinas + if in middle to rocky to get back on boat off dingy. Best to anchor over by island + not go ashore in dingy if paddle unless aware of winds + tidal shift in the afternoon. Midriff area channels has overfalls, fish pile up. Juanoloa, a special island. 1000 whales at Magdelena bay nursing calfs, schools of dolphins, birds that fill your vision The nets has quite the family very supportive + tells stories of all places. cabo has turned into a town I care not to revisit, although the geology is very beautiful. it's just too bad as you enter you get hit with many boats, some with party microphones.
2.1 we are motoring thru a few hundred + beyond included about a thousand pelicans that just gorged a school of fish, as we are off Partida anchorage headed for isle of San Francisco. Water is calm + they just sitting drying their wings from diving.
2.3 leaving San Jose channel with calm seas + with us is
2/3 across school of dolphins playing with boat, sighting of a large fin back whale.
2.4 2 finback whales in Aqua Verde bay feeding with us 10 ft away + then anchored, all morning while I edited project.
The colors from the clouds shade make the islands rock change appearance, it’s a nice passage as I type out in cockpit with motor being on for power. La paz in background at the n tip, Ballendra, is beautiful with its mountain range.
3.1 Nice to have this chance to say hello. We are anchored in Pulpito, next stop bay of conception, which will have internet in Mulege to send this. We almost left in middle of night because the northerlys are hard when beating in to them over a long passage, this is 35 miles + picks up heavy in afternoon, + folks that have been here 20 years say they only travel at night when most of time is flat. But if wind blows all night it continues. we are learning. 2 guys just came in to Juanico + said 1 broached 2 times + other 1. seas are 6-9 + very close together around points + different depths, so beaware. Plus it is early to go north. Folks come south. But the days are warm + nights cozy still with feather comforter + Maurice’s warmth nice. But too cold to go snorkeling yet. We went in Partida + not bad for a bit, but more n a little colder.
we have had no people or few boats + few pangas with big motors costing 18000. Maurice said. We just saw arturosport.com? I think $150./person /night. pick up fisherman + take to camp in bush. Jimmy they will tell you what they catch, we see them trolling a lot. These locals go so fast in big open seas + follow coast, which we can’t because some times bigger seas?? but they pound or fly over waves, coming from all directions, but some stay in when heavy blow.
Today is nice, Maurice has been teaching me cues, that he don’t listen to always + should, for defining weather, + together we have figured out some nice growth. Boy these northerly winds known for winter, that will come maybe another month then softer southerlys.
Folks seem to have boat on hard in San Carlos, either trailer down from Arizona, Nogales? Then store camper + sail until hot summer or before hurricane area + go north. + back to go home to work + store boat on hard. Us being wood may not be that easy but San Carlos to pull out on hard to work bottom maintenance is within 100 miles, a night run?
Juanica was beautiful, the last anchorage 10 miles away. Although offices are in place for 4000 houses to be built around a beautiful bay. Maurice saw a rattlesnake in canyon that made noise, some have rattlers but don’t rattle, so look at where your feet go. we have a few bays nice if go back, but we like to go in when none north wind or go where we can be protected by both. + know we are looking at bigger picture for a base + weather safety, project/internet, budget?? plus good snorkeling close.
rather than go to Rosalia marina which is ecky, + then 71 or 77 miles to next San Franciquito + then 50 to bay of Los Angeles, where 1 0r 2 safe anchorages only plus winds their now higher yet supposedly plus local wind elefante which has a path. + shorter hops maybe by islands. Which we wait a month + consider that. After n wind dies.
nice island life. Mulege stores are 15 miles by road from Bay Conception with 8 maybe anchorages, snorkeling. Sansipac anchorage, after Domingo rounding the corner depending if day or night run, good for shop + anchorage flat even though winds blow by Annie’s restaurant's boat on buoy. Russ owner of Anna’s nice + we hitch a ride + with few others going to town, put our thumbs out.
Leaving Lapaz we had nice winds - it can happen, stayed in Lobos 1st. which we always left LaPaz after shopping + chores. nice reef, mt view + hiking, safe from n+s winds.
Then passed San Francisco Bay which is nice white beach, but went on to Averista, farther away, Sandy’s favorite for hiking, people, safe both winds, but we did not like, rather El Gado would have been nice, beautiful scenery with black rock huge + red, yellow + white sand + clear water. this scenery has been my favorite but I miscalculated a distance. we decided to go on. plus have to watch fuel. I saw 4 wheel vehicles on beach so they get into some of these places thru back roads off main road.
these are nice short day trips coming into anchorage before dark. Pt Marcial, I spelling these wrong, but will see on chart. This was a great north protection only. very clear + 1st place to see so much life from dingy. All other places the dingy scares them, maybe white paint. Could it be the hydrogen peroxide..
we watched a dingy in La Paz after 2 months in water + a good 1” of growth chiseled off. E paint is based on hydrogen peroxide so not as toxic for bottom paint. Our dingy has no growth yet.
3 blade prop best. A thicker edge on blade is better for levitating + oxygen bubbles eating away blade. Just because you sail you still turn off with 1 blade same as a 2 blade prop, so not more resistance. Scots spray no good because more growth on where we sprayed. Plus the bio-cide in fuel tank diesel no good at all. it definitely is nice to know your tools. plus perhaps dirty fuel at Mag bay.
Again 2 anchorages ago we got in high north wind + big seas, 6 to 9’ build up with differential of depths + refract around points, so we bouncing + fuel tank loosen all the stuff that bio-cide broke up, where if no bio-cide the growth would stay together we think, that life that lives in diesel?
Maurice put on switch to turn to another hose directly to day tank jerry can above so clean. But we could not do that until after in + calm.
beating into a nw anchorage sailing with nw wind does not work, so we stopped below just in time to anchor. Plus coming in luckily we could occasionally start engine to go up because their had to be 1 big rock right on our path.
when we sell this boat, it is it’s 1 down fall, the fuel tank has no hole to pour out at bottom, it is a keg, toms doing. as well his stainless bolt in the staysail connection fused + broke under sail, luckily those winds where light. Maurice keeps working, replaced it with plumbing hardware.
We stayed at Aqua Verde where folks like + we didn’t , but that was my mistake with measuring miles, plus the northerly came up + it was good for both winds, + stayed for 4 days until wind stopped. We actually had goats on mts, + 2 finback whales 10’ from us in bay as we came in + they stayed in bay chowing down. So I still work on editing 2-3 hrs every day with solar sun + was nice working in cockpit watching whales.
Plus I found a little tide pool that housed a nursery ground for I think nudibrinks, so I had fun with them, otherwise water is clear but could not see due to green occasionally. Maurice now collects clam/mussel when can + he caught few fish their. + we found later no fishing from Lorretto due to preserving attempts.
Jimmy the fish that used to be here where giants, in last story I told Wendy their was a 10 mile school of yellowtale which was 200# ers, but not now, but they recently see schools all the way from cabo to Escondido which is what 300 miles maybe??
But sailing in miles of dolphins is something unique. We’ve done that a few times. Plus whales close, saw maybe 6 so far. I guess they are at Magdelene bay, a thousand go in their to nurse + mate.
Coming thru Danzante island + Carmen is a bottleneck, calm + then we saw it + kept going + shouldn’t of, for by the time we got to Ballendra across from Lorreto it was big seas especially coming from 2 different sea heights of floor at north end. Plus having to go into a westerly anchorage with nw winds + building around points was tricky. We have leaned both times with water coming over deck, with little drips in bunk bed, covered with plastic. Ballendra is nice bowl. Close entrance + can’t really see until on top but we use gps, + it closer to n end that you see coming from s. Escondido we did not go due to 20. mooring buoys per night + some folks boycotting, + waiting room anchorage is deep. But what we could of done when we saw that wind, if only known, was to turn back + go to salt mind in nw side of Carmen, nice + flat, island protects from n wind. hindsight + familiarity is an asset to anyplace.
Loretto is open anchorage + Isla Coranado 6 miles maybe + then Ballendra 10 but I won’t go back to these channel effects. if get caught in wind, chop + a beam as trying to get into Ballendra, no thanks.
So Bay of Conception may be where we hang out until north wind settles down. 22 miles long by 2 at narrowest to 5miles.. With few choices, + lots of Canadian motor homes along the road + Annies restaurant owner goes into pick up help so we hitch a ride to Mulege for internet, food, fuel, laundry which having outside has now been wet in bag.
Project is coming nicely. we ‘ve been working hard all the time when we can + play in dingy rest of day looking into water at marine life + plants, hiking, or working on boat figuring out a life.
Some folks don’t mind beating or turning + running, which short distance yes, but long I never did like a roller coaster. I can’t imagine the vagabondos that came in 18-22’ boats with motors that came in dec from Kino across Midriff islands + Catalina favorite, but this guy that wrote loved to fish + knew where each one lived. + would go like cow boys in seas every year + meet here + catch 200 plus pound fish. From Kino to Lapaz in 3 weeks, or Kino to Mulege 1 week + Kino to Loretto 2 weeks? Then beat back, crazy!
In Juanico, a Canadian from Lorretto puts on kayack 7 day tours + they also had to beat + work, I respect them. Loretto has a big airport.
we open eyes to all input but have been ignoring weather reports + watching barometer. Our cheap little one has been good, but I guess all you have to tap lightly to see in the moment accuracy. 1015 or so good + it was 1028 milibars, each area different, each day we watch throughout day if goes up we stay + give seas a chance to go down, for swells + no wind is a mess to. For each afternoon the n wind picks up 15-30, don’t seem much but in these bottleneck spots a 15 knt wind gives 6' plus seas + close chop especially if around point. But usually 1 hr after sunset + we watch color, + usually wind goes down but if it doesn’t it usually keeps blowing. When red sky at night sailor delight usually light winds, but in morning when red sky be worn, high winds with dramatic sunrises + sun sets.
The California santa anas blow to central sea. Today 30 plus winds if crossed over to San carlos + here in bay conception. Here next to Russ’s boat in Santispac is good, got white caps in bay but holding + we back on boat so quite not so hard to get off dingy when seas rolling. Yet to go out to reef. Around outer shoals with rocks nice grasses + yesterday we saw a lot of skates mating time I think. If go on other side of sands building from tidal exchange then more clarity on rocks, etc. now that we have been here at Santispac and over at Garys at El Burro, I think I like outer sea better. I enjoy the rock mountain view from anchorage.
San Carlos is an answer to put boat on mooring buoy if need to go back to states for work, best wood boat in water. + nice for others on land. 100 miles - cross over needs to be with caution for those sharp steep seas if caught would be on the beam. we did not want to fend for limited good anchorages at hurricane season.
The locals + baja are fisherman in islands + have plastic + debree fish camps on beach. I have to respect them. then they drive over to a beach + clean their fish, a lot of shark, skates when fishing not good, they say water too cold. but Maurice was getting his lines chumped off so he keeps going bigger, now he has a 2200 pound line so look out if we catch one. He catches a lot of puffer fish. Susan at juanica with baby saw a 3’ triggerfish, we saw a 3 ‘ needle nose. The rocks had osprey nests nice.
Stars are beautiful at night in dark.
sadly the last 5 years to date 2013, supposedly the sea is empty, it has been leased to the Japanese to fish it, updates later, please add input.
Enjoy sea of cortez…